El Comidista, August 2022.
The latest entry in our terrace series takes us to a good spot with a lovely outdoor area if you’re in Catalonia: we’re heading to the Empordà, where Dalí lost his lighter, but with a touch of New Zealand spirit.
By now, you probably know that it’s not impossible to find a nice terrace on the coast where you can enjoy good food and a pleasant outdoor space. Our mission is to help you avoid paying a high price for low-quality fare, and in this case, we suggest a place that a 1970s real estate developer would call “second line from the beach.” Specifically, in Rupià, a small village in Baix Empordà, only about 20 minutes by car from nearby beaches like L’Estartit. It also bears the name of a cute pair of New Zealand animals, their national symbol: Doskiwis.
What more could you ask for?
In practice, it’s a roadside bar at the entrance of the town, surrounded by farmhouses. But don’t expect cassette tapes or tourist-targeted junk food (which can be fun in other contexts). You immediately notice that this place is different from what’s nearby, with a subtle hipster touch done well—like the village itself, which has, so far, escaped the developers’ grasp and remains largely intact.
Doskiwis is a craft brewery with a very pleasant outdoor area where you can eat and drink. On the menu, Judit Piñol, co-founder, describes the beers she brews on-site with her partner as “modern and approachable.” No need to worry if you’re not into experimental flavors. There’s something for everyone: IPA, Pale Ale, Sour, and Pilsner. One to highlight is the Rupianum, an Empordà ale made with organic Catalan malt and local hops from Girona. “Our hazy IPAs and Pale Ales are also very surprising for their fruity and citrusy characteristics,” adds Judit over the phone. They also have a 3% ABV beer called Mini Truck.
It’s clear that everything is made by them, and despite giving you the impression of a relaxed, almost camping vibe, they always use local products, working with the surrounding community. The food is street-style and unpretentious but clearly focused on quality.
The menu usually features three different burgers: a vegetarian option, a beef burger made with Wagyu-style meat from the Empordà raised literally by a neighbor five minutes away, and a pulled pork burger from Llavora, a nearby organic pork brand, slow-cooked for nine hours. In true circular economy fashion, the pigs are fed on the leftover malt from brewing.
Another highlight is the pork ribs, cooked on a barbecue they built themselves using a gas tank and a stove. They also offer a more exotic fusion dish: goat curry, using locally-raised, eco-friendly goat. “Our chef, Jeet, is from India, so we have access to interesting dishes that aren’t typical in our area,” Judit explains. They also make pakoras—fried vegetable snacks with dipping sauces. Even though meat features prominently, there’s plenty of vegetables, like salads, with Judit’s favorite being the quinoa salad, which she passionately defends as a dish you could eat every day.
Evenings Are Lovely at Doskiwis
The place’s story is recent. Judit and Michael started in 2016. After meeting in London and traveling through Australia, they decided to import a model they had seen abroad. They learned brewing techniques there, as neither came from a culinary background, but from fields as far—or as close, depending on perspective—as fashion.
They started at home and then found their current location on kilometer 22 of the Parlavà road (GI-642). The easiest way to get there is by car, but the nearest train station, Flaçà, is only 5.6 km away if you want to bike or walk. Another thoughtful touch from the couple is offering suggested walking routes on their website for customers who want to walk off their meal.
Their original idea was to have their own craft brewery, but they later decided they wanted to invite people to snack while enjoying their beers. Each contributed their part, and in 2019, they began incorporating food by inviting local food trucks, and a year later, they started making it themselves. Another great feature of the place is the space itself: in the original building, an old store, they have the brewery with a quarter dedicated to taps (they also sell their beers in bars and shops). They added a shipping container they refurbished themselves, and today they’re on their second, which also serves as a cold storage unit.
The outdoor areas stand out for their casual charm and give a refreshing escape from the usual Mediterranean environment. “The garden isn’t manicured; it’s a bit wild, and sometimes you think: wow, this looks rough! But it’s very authentic. At the end of the day, we’re opening the doors to our home, which isn’t always perfect,” she explains naturally. There are actually two terraces: a smaller garden reserved for groups and another with wooden picnic tables—wherever you sit, the pleasant atmosphere is guaranteed.
Read full article:
https://elpais.com/gastronomia/el-comidista/2022/07/25/articulo/1658732180_549460.html